How to Do a Fade Haircut-Tips from a Barber
Learning how to do a fade haircut is hard. But with some simple tricks and some practice it will become easy!
Tips for How to Do a Fade Haircut Perfectly…
There are so many versions of a perfect fade out there! And once you’ve done one for yourself, the satisfaction meets no end.
For the fellow barbers and stylists reading this, you can concur, there’s nothing quite like watching your client walk away with a stellar fade and how they walk with more confidence because they know they look amazing.
But learning how to do a proper fade is hard. Especially if you don’t have the right tools.
So let’s start at the beginning…
What you Need to Learn How to Do a Fade Haircut
✔️ Lever clippers
✔️ A set of clippers with interchangeable blades
✔️ Andis foil
For help finding the best professional clippers please visit Barber Reviewed Top 5 Best Professional Clippers
Though I personally use these 4 separate tools for my fades, it is absolutely possible to use only one set of clippers to achieve your goal of learning how to do a fade haircut.
There is just no one kind of fade
Do you remember the scene in Forrest Gump when his buddy Bubba explained how many ways you can cook shrimp?
When a new client sits in my chair and says, “Oh I just want a fade.”
I think of this scene.
There are dozens of different kinds of fades. ALWAYS clarify what kind of fade your guest is actually wanting.
Razor fade?
Skin fade?
Taper fade?
5 o’clock shadow fade?
#1 fade?
Or just a regular cut and what they mean by ‘fade’ is really just a good blend.
The first thing you MUST do when learning how to do a fade haircut is to ask for a photo.
If you’re unsure of how to communicate with your guest to get the exact cut they want, or if you’re having trouble understanding what your guest is describing, ask for a picture. There is no easier way to be in the same page than looking at the same picture.
The Nitty Gritty- How to do a Fade Haircut
Razor fades, aka military fades, aka skin fades…
After the consultation, you’ve established a game plan and know what kind of fade your client wants. For the sake of this article, let’s say they want a razor fade.
Hair Consultation Questions – How to Conduct the Perfect Salon Consultation
(A razor fade means it goes straight down to skin, smooth with a razor.)
Always ask how high the razor fade is supposed to be.
👆 High- Right under and on the crown
👉 Medium- Just above the ears, not above the temple
👇Low- Below the ears
Using your tools
Using your lever clipper makes all the difference.
The trick is to just bump the lever ever so slightly, as if it were minutes on a clock, don’t move the lever an hour at a time, but a few minutes at a time.
Only use each level on your lever (every minute, not hour) only 1/8th of an inch! Any more than 1/8”, you’ll be bringing the fade higher than the desired low, medium, or high.
The perfect polishing tool
1a detachable blade is a perfect polishing tool just to blend out and bleed all of the faded levels together.
Now, 1a is ever so slightly different than a regular 1.
The 1 regular has a tip of the blade that tilts down. The 1a doesn’t tilt but is more straight.
The length is the same for both but the tilt makes just enough difference to polish a cut. I love mine.
I never use the 1a to blend, it doesn’t work as smooth for that but for fades, it’s the most satisfying part of the cut for me.
If you’ve never heard of detachable blades I encourage you to visit Barber Reviewed Top 5 Best Professional Clippers
Last secret to the perfect razor fade
Besides applying and practicing the skill of bumping your level a fraction at a time, the best tool to use is a foil.
I use an Andis Foil. You can find more information about this tool Best Barber Tools For Fades
A foil is a tool that is similar to a men’s face shaver, where it cuts closer to the skin than a razor but smooths the line between the shortest length of the fade (like trimmer length or 00000 blade).
The trick to blending this part is by foiling the line down instead of up. Clippers are used by going upwards on the head, specifically for this trimmer length to skin line, the foil works best going down.
The foil can also be used on the face instead of a razor, for those who have sensitive skin and struggle with breakouts.
It’s hard to get good at fades
As a barber, I can tell you that my fades did not start out very pretty. Getting to the point where your razor fade is flawless takes lots and lots of practice.
Don’t be discouraged when beginning to challenge your skills with perfecting your razor fade.
Final note, TAKE PHOTOS! Before’s, after’s, the ones you’re especially proud of, AND the ones you aren’t proud of. This way you will be able to challenge yourself and watch your own progress.
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Photo credit: Myself, Madison- Instagram photos from madison.stylist